From accidental pets to Agri-business: Rabbit rearing (by a now, ex- novice)

Accidental kits @ 2 weeks, 5 days old

As a plant enthusiast, I have always said I don’t have a gift for animal husbandry; and the few times I tried rearing animals when I was younger, it didn’t go so well. So, for about 20 years, I have stuck to plant cultivation, and I seem to have a magic finger for those.

My children however like cuddly things, and recently we visited an extended family where they rear rabbits. The children did what kids do, and we ended up with a baby rabbit a week or two later; barely having enough time to build a cage.

All I asked for was a cage with two rooms, because another bunny was promised to the second child in another week or two. My carpenter however ended up constructing a coop big enough to house a few chickens (which ended up being fabulous later).

From the very beginning, I gave my fair warning: I would help set things up, but I would not be a part of the cleaning or rearing; as i believed I did not have the magic finger for it. The children agreed to be the ones to nurture it, and one of their uncle-figures agreed to handle the cleaning.

The same night we got the bunny home, it disappeared. Till this day, we have no explanation for the disappearance but the most feasible one would be that our dog ate it. We made the mistake of simply latching it, but without a padlock.

The children were so devastated, went to school with a foul mood and failed to concentrate. When I picked them up, they had only one question: “did you find the bunny?”. There were tears when I gave them a negative response; apparently they had bragged to their friends about their new pet; but a mistake had been made, their most favorite thing ever was gone, the new cage was now useless etc.

And so, what was supposed to just be a simple short lived experience with a cute pet (hoping they would outgrow the cuddly need and we would move on), turned into 4 adults scrambling to get a replacement rabbit to cheer the children up, and eventually deciding to buy a male and a female, to compensate for only one going missing etc.

The children were elated the day they returned from school and saw these two furry things. It was an exciting experience, even for me. But kids would be kids; my daughter showed so much disappointment at not having a baby rabbit and the attitude became quite annoying that we had to reset her brain the African way (no beating involved). I threatened to give the rabbits out (since she gave an attitude of not wanting it), her brother cried some, she felt bad; and by evening, the only question they bugged me with was “mummy can we please bring the rabbits out to play?”

The following day, we tried to mate the rabbits, as advised by the seller, but the female was so ferocious that I had to request for her to be returned to her cage. I briefly wondered if she acted that way because she had already mated; i asked but got a negative response, so I suggested we allow her rest for a few more days.

We returned from Church 4 days later, asked the children to go feed the rabbits, and my son ran over screaming, “we have babies”.

I was not ready for this at all! And I lowkey hoped he was just confused.

He was not confused.

There were 4 hairless, tiny, very red baby bunnies rolling helplessly upside down.

I was a novice who had absolutely no idea how to care for these babies; I barely scaled through the animal husbandry compulsory courses in school…my belief of not being blessed with the grace to rear them go that much way back!

But maternal instinct kicked in, along with the little knowledge I managed to retain from Agric school.

First, I got a carton, lined it with a soft cloth and grabbed the babies with another fabric (taking care to not touch them directly). One of them was a runt.

Then I returned the babies to their mom, for nature to do its thing. It was a rainy period, so I also put down a tarp. The doe had removed some of her fur, but being a first time mom, it was just a small pull, and it was already entangled with grass and some dirt that came from the birth, so I cleaned all that out, hoping the fabric would suffice.

I also noticed that she had passed some whitish stuff that smelled like moimoi. The cage was a very good one with rabbit mesh underneath, so all the waste and every liquid she expelled didn’t stay in the cage. I cleaned as much of that out as possible, so as not to attract predators (she kept expelling for almost 48 hours).

From my experience with dog birth, I know she would have licked it all up anyway. Natural maternal instincts tell animals to keep the cage and the litter clean.

The doe did not go near the litter while we were there, but i trusted that she would do the right thing and nurture them well. She did. The children caught glimpses of her feeding them, and they would scream and analyze excitedly; buy i never got to see that.

We kept the mom well fed and with lots of water. We discovered rabbits like ewuro (bitter leaf), and since it is medicinal, we introduced it to the mom, hoping it would help her heal.

A week later, the rabbits had such big bellies but mostly still laid on their side, rolling blindly (their eyes hadn’t opened)

A day or two later, the runt unfortunately died, but from what I know in agriculture, you can not always rule out mortality, moreso with me being new to this.

We, however, later realized the carton i used was too tall, and the doe had been trying to gnaw at it with her teeth (very sharp teeth by the way…she cuts through small iron rods).

So we disposed the rabbit that was no more, changed the carton to a fairly bigger one, and cut it in half so the mom could have better access to her kit. It worked.

By now, they had a faint layer of hair, but mostly veins and very reddish skin, with pot bellies.

A few more days went by (about 2 weeks total), and their eyes opened up, and they had a beautiful fur. We randomly brought them out of the carton to see how they would fare in the main cage, and it was a good move. Initially, they huddled together in one spot close to the back, but they moved around a bit before we returned them to the carton.

By the following day, they stayed longer outside the carton and even played with the children. That same day, they started hopping out of the carton by themselves.

Less than a week later, they had full fur, long ears and looked like they were at least 5 weeks old. They were very fast and active. They also could play outside the cage, and the doe looked like she was thankful for the break.

At this stage also, they started nibbling at their mom’s feed but not so much. They survived mostly on milk.

By week 3, they were very active and alert. They did look independent, like they were ready to be weaned but I decided to let them stay longer with their mom, even though at this stage, we already made an extra cage, ready to separate them at any time.

What started as a fancy pet for the children now seem to have become a potential profitable business or, at the very least, regular source of protein in our pots of soup.

Around week 3, my son left the cages unhooked, and all four rabbits hatched a failed ‘prison break’. And though we were lucky to get them all back, it was a heck of a run around the compound, hunting these fast and furious rabbits down. They outwitted and outsmarted us with ease, especially because there were two cars parked side by side, which the male bunny smartly quickly figured we couldn’t readily access. We eventually caught all four and gave a strict warning to double check locks moving forward.

Accidental knowledge

After safely returning all the rabbits, we realized the doe was quite restless, scurrying away from her kits. We randomly thought to introduce her to the male, and before we could rethink that choice, she laid calmly for a mating session, which initially failed. But after giving them some privacy for about an hour, there was a fierce fight in the cage, similar to how the doe behaved when we first attempted a mate, which led me to assume the mating process was successful. And even if it wasn’t, at this stage, I questioned the decision to mate her so early, and so we returned her to her kits.

Later reading up on this, however, I realized it is safe to introduce her for mating from the 3rd week after delivery; though for her optimal strength, 5 weeks post delivery is the best plan. Even at 5 weeks, and a gestation period of 31-33 days; also considering the ease of rearing and minimal smell, this is a potentially highly profitable business.

ESTIMATE COSTING

Averagely you would get a full wired 12 rabbit cage for N150,000 (figure as at 2026). The one we made cost about N50,000 which is not cost effective but the large space would probably make birthing process more comfortable for the doe; so, as things progress, the plan is to use this big one for the birthing pool and ultimately a normal full battery cage for rearing.

This is what a standard rabbit cage should look like (in my opinion however, they need a little more space to run around)

Feed is about N1,200 per kg and should feed a grown rabbit for about 3-4 days.

Rabbit feeder is N1,000 each. You may improvise for starters , but they are restless and as such, upturn bowls easily. To mitigate this, we put stones in their water bowls. The feed bowls will be changed to the mud rabbit feeder as well.

The only medication we ever had to use was antibiotics @ N1,200 per satchet and dewormer, which is about N100 a tablet

Small padlocks @ N2500 a pair

I do hope someone finds this post helpful, and gets the push/ confidence needed to try rabbit farming.

And if you need more help, click this Link to chat on WhatsApp.

Ugwu (fluted pumpkin) Cultivation

Ugwu is one of the most interesting plants I’ve ever got to plant.If you do not understand it, it is bound to be a failed project (many people complain about ugwu failing). But once you understand the procedure, you will find out it’s one of the most rugged plants there is.

Ugwu pods

Ugwu seeds come in a pod, and so far I know of two species.There is a small one that gets to have about 30 seeds in it (it is usually referred to as ‘local’ breed, so I’m not sure where it originated from).

Then there is another specie that gives bigger pods and it comes with (usually) between 72 and 98 seeds in it.

Ugwu pod (large)

Prices vary, depending on the season.The smaller one sells for about N1500 during the dry season but can go as high as N5000 during the rainy season.

The bigger specie sells for about N2500 during the dry season but goes as high up as N10,000 during rainy season.

Please note that the prices are valid as of April 2021. Market price tend to change drastically in Nigeria and as such, these info should just be taken as a guide.

UGWU SEEDSUgwu seeds come between 2cm and 4cm in size.

The size however doesn’t affect the quality of what comes out of it, as long as it is properly managed.

When you break the pod (carefully), you will see a mass of moist fibre that protects the seeds (almost like how pawpaw encases its seeds).

Carefully peel off the fibre to expose the seeds.

Place them in a bowl or tray and air-dry for a day or two.

PLANTING

You can actually plant directly on the farm but I prefer to monitor the progress of my plants from germination till they are ready to ‘graduate from the nursery’.

So I use cups, which make it easy for me to assess progress without disturbing growth process (digging plant out of the soil).

If you are planting directly on the farm, the first thing you should do is to prepare the field (weed, make heaps…the whole works, i believe we know).

If like me, you will be using a nursery, find a suitable (and available) methods to use. Over here, we use damaged kegs, bowls, cups etc. See pictures below)damaged 25ltr keg cut in half, showing ugwu sproutsDisposable cups, showing ugwu sproutsRaised Wooden nurseryWhatever the method you choose to use, get some saw dust, mix with some sand and fill your container of choice. Water it lightly, and it’s ready to accomodate your seeds.

PLANTINGYour seed should have two blunt sides and one pointed end.

You will need to plant your seed exactly the way I held it in this picture…with the pointed edge facing out (and one blunt side facing up, while the other blunt side goes into the soil).

This method is applicable for the hybrid (large) pod specie.

The smaller one (local) is mostly a gamble. And for this reason, the success rate of the hybrid is higher than the local.

This right here is the reason why you should plant with the stated method.

As seen in the picture above, the root sprouts from the pointed edge while the leaves emerge from the blunt side (it doesnt matter which side. It can emerge from either side, but it will choose whichever side is facing up).

GERMINATION

These (as seen in the pictures above) are the first stages of growth but it is usually not seen because its immersed in the soil.

The first (physical) thing that happens with your seed is to produce roots, first a single thick one and followed by tinier tendrils that quickly form a web.

This stage occur at about (give or take) 5-7 days into planting.

The next stage is the first stage that is seen from above the soil, and this is when the blunt part of the seed splits open from the top.Splitting occurs about 8-10 days after planting (depending on virility).Once splitting occurs, a tender leaf (or two) will find it’s way out of the seed.

It usually takes about 2 weeks from the day the seed is planted, to the day the first sprouts emerge. Some will coke out earlier than this while others will come later. If your pod is sourced from a viable parent stock and properly managed, every single one of the seeds should germinate.

From this point, it’s nothing but speedy growth.About a week or two after germination (if well cared for), the seedling should become long, have ‘hairs’ and start to show signs that it’s too grown for cups.

At this point, it is ready to be translated onto the main field.

PLANTING

You should wait till the onset of rains, and for the field to be fully ready, before the seedlings are transplanted.

Ugwu is quite a tough plant and will survive in most conditions but one should be mindful of the intensity of sun especially at the tender stage.

I plant both on the field (large quantity) and in my garden (home gardening). For the latter, I use bags and containers which make it easy for me to move about during those early weeks of growth.

Stakes/ sheds are essential for ugwu plants, whether cultivating it for leaves or for the fruit.

I would say if planting on the field, the shed should be built at about the time the seedlings are being transplanted for 2 major reasons.

1. Digging the soil (to build a shed/ stake) after a plant has been established is dangerous too the roots as they stand a risk of being damaged.

2. We know how scorching the sun can be in Nigeria. Having a shed especially at the tender stage of growth of the plant makes it possible to put palm fronds or other means of shade, to protect the plant until it is strong enough to withstand the heat.

It is better to transplant in the evening (when the sun is down), water the plant if the soil isn’t wet (if it hasn’t rained for a few days and the soil is dry) and check up on it at least every other day.

Spacing should be about half a foot apart if cultivating for leaves but about two feet apart if cultivating for fruits.

If planting in the house, and you have a tree, it is pretty easy if your plants stay under or around the tree, with the hope that the tree will serve as the fortress against which your plants will creep. The likes of ewuro tree is the best because the trunks aren’t too wide, and as such easy for the ugwu tresses to attach to.

NURSERY ERRORS

As easy as it is to cultivate ugwu, it is also easy to make mistakes but as said earlier, ugwu is one tough crop and will fight to survive, if you try to reverse the mistakes as quickly as possible.

The most common error is the positioning of the seed that has been treated above.Next is moisture content of the soil. If the soil is too dry, it may be difficult for the seed to break open and this will eventually lead to rot.Once the root however starts to emerge, one should be mindful of flooding the seedling. In some cases, allowance made for drainage may not be enough and the retained water would cause the roots to start to rot.

This is why one ought to monitor the plants closely on a daily basis.I do use spent satchet (pure water nylon) but I find it pretty uncomfortable because roots don’t tend to do well especially if the seedling will stay long in it. Also because it loiters the environment after use.

This here is a typical example of waterlogged rootsAsides the root of this plant being damaged by water, an animal nibbled the stem pretty bad.

All I did was plant it out immediately (to allow free flow of water, because I didn’t want to return it to the nursery); and then I used neem branches to form a shade over it (they work as well as palm fronds do).This is one badly damaged seed. It was immersed and forgotten and by the time I realized, it had started to rot. Luckily it still had some green patch, which when exposed to the sun brought it back to life.This particular plant was nibbled off completely by an unidentified animal. Twice. A fresh sprout emerged about 2 weeks of nurturing.This batch got water logged. Some were already soggy, looking like the end of their lives. First thing I did was to reverse the problem (re-pot in a cup of dry sand/ sawdust) and totally remove from the sun.This was also snapped off by an animal. You can spot the tiny new sprout about to emerge from within.And then about 48 hours later, the color started to change. I realized that ugwu seeds create a protective layer, kind of like a cocoon when faced with adverse environment. This guards the inside of the split seed (which is where a fresh growth will emerge, as long as the seed is still viable, even if the previous one got damaged)Removing the film exposed a fresh growth.The last 2 pictures are of a seedling which I thought would not recover from its damage because it wasn’t just nibbled from the top, the animal chewed all the way in.

After about a week of careful nurturing, not just one but about four beautiful sprouts emerged, revealing this beauty.

If you notice a snap in the fresh succulent plant (like an animal had it for dinner😁), don’t be alarmed. Simply change the location away from accessibility to the animal and give the plant about a week to recover.

Speculations are that the snapping is done by an alligator (over here) but we haven’t physically caught it.We were advised to use some repellant of some sort but I’m not convinced it worked.

The most common pest on the field are grasshoppers. Unless it is an infestation, you should not be worried about it.

HARVESTING

Harvesting can start about 4 weeks after planting (leaves); and at 2-4 weeks interval. Fruits are ready for harvesting at about 9 weeks after the onset of fruiting.

#eniolafarms

@eniolafarms

08038597411

Ugwu (fluted pumpkin) Cultivation

Ugwu is one of the most interesting plants I’ve ever got to plant.

If you do not understand it, it is bound to be a failed project (many people complain about ugwu failing). But once you understand the procedure, you will find out it’s one of the most rugged plants there is.

Ugwu pods

Ugwu seeds come in a pod, and so far I know of two species.

There is a small one that gets to have about 30 seeds in it (it is usually referred to as ‘local’ breed, so I’m not sure where it originated from).

Then there is another specie that gives bigger pods and it comes with (usually) between 72 and 98 seeds in it.

Ugwu pod (large)

Prices vary, depending on the season.

The smaller one sells for about N1500 during the dry season but can go as high as N5000 during the rainy season.

The bigger specie sells for about N2500 during the dry season but goes as high up as N10,000 during rainy season.

Please note that the prices are valid as of April 2021. Market price tend to change drastically in Nigeria and as such, these info should just be taken as a guide.

UGWU SEEDS

Ugwu seeds come between 2cm and 4cm in size. The size however doesn’t affect the quality of what comes out of it, as long as it is properly managed.

When you break the pod (carefully), you will see a mass of moist fibre that protects the seeds (almost like how pawpaw encases its seeds).

Carefully peel off the fibre to expose the seeds.

Place them in a bowl or tray and air-dry for a day or two

PLANTING

You can actually plant directly on the farm but I prefer to monitor the progress of my plants from germination till they are ready to ‘graduate from the nursery’. So I use cups, which make it easy for me to assess progress without disturbing growth process (digging plant out of the soil).

If you are planting directly on the farm, the first thing you should do is to prepare the field (weed, make heaps…the whole works, i believe we know).

If like me, you will be using a nursery, find a suitable (and available) methods to use.

Over here, we use damaged kegs, bowls, cups etc. See pictures below)

damaged 25ltr keg cut in half, showing ugwu sprouts

Disposable cups, showing ugwu sprouts

Raised Wooden nursery

Whatever the method you choose to use, get some saw dust, mix with some sand and fill your container of choice. Water it lightly, and it’s ready to accomodate your seeds.

PLANTING

Your seed should have two blunt sides and one pointed end.

You will need to plant your seed exactly the way I held it in this picture…with the pointed edge facing out (and one blunt side facing up, while the other blunt side goes into the soil).

This method is applicable for the hybrid (large) pod specie. The smaller one (local) is mostly a gamble. And for this reason, the success rate of the hybrid is higher than the local.

And this right here is the reason why you should plant with the stated method.

As seen in the picture above, the root sprouts from the pointed edge while the leaves emerge from the blunt side (it doesnt matter which side. It can emerge from either side, but it will choose whichever side is facing up).

GERMINATION

These (as seen in the pictures above) re the first stages of growth but it is usually not seen because its immersed in the soil.

The first (physical) thing that happens with your seed is to produce roots, first a single thick one and followed by tinier tendrils that quickly form a web.

This stage occur at about (give or take) 5-7 days into planting.

The next stage is the first stage that is seen from above the soil, and this is when the blunt part of the seed splits open from the top.

Splitting occurs about 8-10 days after planting (depending on virility).

Once splitting occurs, a tender leaf (or two) will find it’s way out of the seed.

It usually takes about 2 weeks from the day the seed is planted, to the day the first sprouts emerge. Some will coke out earlier than this while others will come later. If your pod is sourced from a viable parent stock and properly managed, every single one of the seeds should germinate.

From this point, it’s nothing but speedy growth.

About a week or two after germination (if well cared for), the seedling should become long, have ‘hairs’ and start to show signs that it’s too grown for cups.

At this point, it is ready to be translated onto the main field.

PLANTING

You should wait till the onset of rains, and for the field to be fully ready, before the seedlings are transplanted.

Ugwu is quite a tough plant and will survive in most conditions but one should be mindful of the intensity of sun especially at the tender stage.

I plant both on the field (large quantity) and in my garden (home gardening). For the latter, I use bags and containers which make it easy for me to move about during those early weeks of growth.

Stakes/ sheds are essential for ugwu plants, whether cultivating it for leaves or for the fruit.

I would say if planting on the field, the shed should be built at about the time the seedlings are being transplanted for 2 major reasons.

1. Digging the soil (to build a shed/ stake) after a plant has been established is dangerous too the roots as they stand a risk of being damaged.

2. We know how scorching the sun can be in Nigeria. Having a shed especially at the tender stage of growth of the plant makes it possible to put palm fronds or other means of shade, to protect the plant until it is strong enough to withstand the heat.

It is better to transplant in the evening (when the sun is down), water the plant if the soil isn’t wet (if it hasn’t rained for a few days and the soil is dry) and check up on it at least every other day.

Spacing should be about half a foot apart if cultivating for leaves but about two feet apart if cultivating for fruits. (The picture above was a temporary fix, the bags will not all stay under this particular shed).

If planting in the house, and you have a tree, it is pretty easy if your plants stay under or around the tree, with the hope that the tree will serve as the fortress against which your plants will creep. The likes of ewuro tree is the best because the trunks aren’t too wide, and as such easy for the ugwu tresses to attach to.

NURSERY ERRORS

As easy as it is to cultivate ugwu, it is also easy to make mistakes but as said earlier, ugwu is one tough crop and will fight to survive, if you try to reverse the mistakes as quickly as possible.

The most common error is the positioning of the seed that has been treated above.

Next is moisture content of the soil. If the soil is too dry, it may be difficult for the seed to break open and this will eventually lead to rot.

Once the root however starts to emerge, one should be mindful of flooding the seedling. In some cases, allowance made for drainage may not be enough and the retained water would cause the roots to start to rot.

This is why one ought to monitor the plants closely on a daily basis.

I do use spent satchet (pure water nylon) but I find it pretty uncomfortable because roots don’t tend to do well especially if the seedling will stay long in it. Also because it loiters the environment after use.

This here is a typical example of waterlogged roots

Asides the root of this plant being damaged by water, an animal nibbled the stem pretty bad. All I did was plant it out immediately (to allow free flow of water, because I didn’t want to return it to the nursery); and then I used neem branches to form a shade over it (they work as well as palm fronds do).

This is one badly damaged seed. It was immersed and forgotten and by the time I realized, it had started to rot. Luckily it still had some green patch, which when exposed to the sun brought it back to life.

This particular plant was nibbled off completely by an unidentified animal. Twice. A fresh sprout emerged about 2 weeks of nurturing.

This batch got water logged. Some were already soggy, looking like the end of their lives. First thing I did was to reverse the problem (re-pot in a cup of dry sand/ sawdust) and totally remove from the sun.

This was also snapped off by an animal. You can spot the tiny new sprout about to emerge from within.

And then about 48 hours later, the color started to change. I realized that ugwu seeds create a protective layer, kind of like a cocoon when faced with adverse environment. This guards the inside of the split seed (which is where a fresh growth will emerge, as long as the seed is still viable, even if the previous one got damaged)

Removing the film exposed a fresh growth.

The last 2 pictures are of a seedling which I thought would not recover from its damage because it wasn’t just nibbled from the top, the animal chewed all the way in.

After about a week of careful nurturing, not just one but about four beautiful sprouts emerged, revealing this beauty.

If you notice a snap in the fresh succulent plant (like an animal had it for dinner😁), don’t be alarmed. Simply change the location away from accessibility to the animal and give the plant about a week to recover.

Speculations are that the snapping is done by an alligator (over here) but we haven’t physically caught it.

We were advised to use some repellant of some sort but I’m not convinced it worked.

The most common pest on the field are grasshoppers. Unless it is an infestation, you should not be worried about it.

HARVESTING

Harvesting can start about 4 weeks after planting (leaves); and at 2-4 weeks interval. Fruits are ready for harvesting at about 9 weeks after the onset of fruiting.

#eniolafarms

@eniolafarms

08038597411

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